How to Choose a Hat Without Getting It Wrong 5 things that make the difference
"I'd love to try wearing a hat — but what if it doesn't suit me?" "What's brim width? How do I even know which to pick?"
These are the questions almost everyone asks when choosing their first hat.
The good news: most hat mistakes come down to the same few things. Brim width, crown height, material, size, and whether it'll last. Understand these five, and the whole process gets a lot simpler.
① Start with brim width
The brim is the single biggest factor in how a hat reads. Get this right and everything else becomes easier.
Short brim (up to 5cm)
Light, casual, approachable. The easiest entry point for first-time hat wearers.
3cm brim (e.g. RH-109)
- The most understated option
- Wears almost like a cap
- Easy to pair with everyday clothes
The "hat energy" is kept low — reassuring for a first attempt.
5cm brim (e.g. RH-104)
- Short, but with more balance
- Works across casual and smart
- Packable and practical
More hat presence than the 3cm, without going too far. Better for those who want a slightly more grown-up look.
Short brims tend to work well across round, long, and smaller face shapes.
Medium brim (6–7cm)
The most versatile range. When in doubt, start here.
7cm brim (e.g. RH-101 MIDDLE BRIM FLAT HAT)
- The classic balanced proportion
- Works across face shapes
- Formal or casual, it adapts
Not as light as a short brim, not as statement-making as a long one. A reliable first hat — and just as good as a second or third.
Long brim (8cm+)
Maximum presence. The hat becomes the focal point of the outfit.
8cm+ brim (e.g. RH-103 BRIM UP LONG FELT HAT)
- The centrepiece of a look
- Strong face-slimming effect
- A more directional, fashion-forward impression
Usually chosen by people who already own a hat and are ready for something with more edge.
② Crown height changes everything
- Under 8cm → casual leaning
- 9–10cm → balanced
- 11cm+ → more directional
Around 10cm is the most natural range — flattering across a wide variety of faces. For beginners, this is the safest zone.
③ Material determines the look and how long it lasts
100% wool
- Beautiful shape retention
- Feels premium
- Built for the long term
Polyester blend
- Lighter
- More affordable
- Slightly more casual
Paper
- Spring and summer only
- Very light
- Has a seasonal quality
If longevity matters to you, 100% wool is the most reliable choice.
④ Size adjustment is non-negotiable
The most common first-hat mistake is getting the size wrong.
Before buying, check:
- Does it have an internal size adjuster?
- Can it be exchanged if the fit is off?
A hat that doesn't fit properly will never look right — even if everything else about it is perfect.
⑤ Choose for the long term
Hats chosen purely for a trend tend to stop getting worn within a few years.
Ask yourself:
- Is the silhouette clean?
- Does the brim and crown proportion feel natural?
- Will it work with most of what I already wear?
Going with something classic and balanced turns out to be the best value in the long run.
Summary
Understand brim width, crown height, material, and size adjustment — and most hat mistakes become avoidable.
In particular, a hat that combines:
- A balanced brim width (6–7cm)
- A crown height around 10cm
- 100% wool construction
- A size adjuster
...is a design that works for almost anyone, including complete beginners.
Hats aren't complicated. Once you understand the structure, choosing becomes simple.