List of Hat Types
List of Hat Types | Easy-to-Understand Explanation of Names, Shapes, and Features
When you try to buy a hat, the first issue you run into is "there are too many types, I don't know what's what." Fedoras, pork pies, boaters—hearing their names doesn't help you picture them. But once you learn the differences in their shapes and the origins of their names, choosing a hat becomes far simpler.
In this article, we categorize hat types into three groups: "Hats," "Caps," and "Other," explaining each category's shape, name origin, and features. We hope this will help you find a hat style that fits you.
※ Specific points for choosing a hat are in "Hat Buying Guide", and brand-specific details are in "List of Global Hat Brands" for detailed information.
Basic Hat Structure: The Difference Between "Hats" and "Caps"
First, the basic premise: hats are broadly split into "Hats" and "Caps."
Hatis the general term for hats with a brim around the entire crown (the top of the head). Fedoras, boaters, pork pies, and others fall under this.
Caprefers to hats with no brim or only a visor at the front. Baseball caps, hunting caps, casquettes, etc., are included here.
In this article, we will first explain hat types in detail, then cover caps and other hats.
Hat Types
Fedora / Soft Crown Hat
One of the most popular hat styles. It features a design where the center of the crown is folded front to back, with a pinch on the left and right sides. The brim is usually around 5–8 cm wide, and can be adjusted to droop or lift at the front.
The name comes from the 1882 play *Fedora*, worn by French actress Sarah Bernhardt. Originally a women's hat, it became popular among men in the 1920s after British Prince Edward wore it. Celebrities like Frank Sinatra and Humphrey Bogart loved it, making it synonymous with "gentleman's hats."
Traditionally made from felt (wool, rabbit fur), but many spring/summer models use straw or linen. It's a versatile style suitable for everything from casual to formal occasions.
- Also known as: soft crown hat, center crease hat
- Brim width: medium to wide (about 5–8 cm)
- Crown: center crease + side pinches
- Formal level: ★★★★☆
Wide Brim Hat
A general term for hats with a brim over 8 cm wide. They offer strong sun protection and have a striking silhouette. It may refer to a wide-brimmed version of a fedora, or styles like floppy hats or safari hats with distinct shapes.
In recent years, wide brims have grown popular in men's fashion too, with more people using them as an accent to simple outfits. They come in a range of materials including felt, straw, and cotton.
- Brim width: wide (about 8 cm or more)
- Crown: various styles like fedora-style, flat-style
- Formal level: ★★★☆☆
- ReqHatter Wide Brim Hat → View Collection
Pork Pie Hat
A short hat with a flat crown top and a circular indentation (telescope crease). The brim is also short and folded up all around. The name comes from its similarity to the shape of the traditional British pork pie dish.
In the 1940s, jazz musician Lester Young popularized it, making it a symbol of jazz and blues culture. It gained renewed attention recently after Walter White wore it in *Breaking Bad*.
It has a more casual, compact vibe than a fedora. Its low crown makes the face look neat, so it's easy for beginners to wear.
- Also known as: stingy brim hat
- Brim width: narrow (about 3–4 cm, folded up all around)
- Crown: low, flat, telescope crease
- Formal level: ★★☆☆☆
- ReqHatter Pork Pie Hat → View Collection
Boater Hat
A hat with a hard flat crown and a horizontally extended flat brim. Worn widely for summer leisure activities like boating and picnics from the late 19th to early 20th centuries. The name comes from "boater" (someone who rows boats). In Japan, it's known as "kankan boater" because hard materials make a "kankan" sound when tapped.
Traditionally made from tightly woven straw (sennit) to keep its shape. A black ribbon band is a classic detail. It works for both formal and casual looks, and remains a popular summer hat for gentlemen. In recent years, felt versions for fall/winter have also appeared.
- Also known as: kankan boater, sailor hat
- Brim width: medium (about 5–7 cm, flat)
- Crown: low, flat, hard
- Formal level: ★★★☆☆
- ReqHatter Boater Hat → View Collection
Flat Hat
A general term for hats with a flat crown top. Boater hats are a type of flat hat, but here it broadly refers to any hat with a flat crown. The difference from a pork pie is brim width and overall silhouette: flat hats have a slightly wider brim and a perfectly horizontal crown top.
It gives a modern, clean look and pairs especially well with simple outfits. It comes in many materials from straw to felt to paper blades.
- Brim width: medium to wide
- Crown: flat top
- Formal level: ★★★☆☆
- ReqHatter Flat Hat → View Collection
Bowler Hat / Derby Hat / Tall Crown Hat
A hard hat with a rounded dome-shaped crown and brim curled up on the sides. Developed in 1849 by London hatmakers Lock & Co. as a safe, durable hat for hunting. Named after the bowler brothers, William and Thomas Bowler, who made it.
Widely known as Charlie Chaplin's trademark. Called "bowler" in the UK and "derby" in the US. Today, it's a symbol of formal or classic styles, especially popular in the UK.
- Also known as: derby hat, tall crown hat
- Brim width: medium (curled up on sides)
- Crown: round dome shape (hard)
- Formal level: ★★★★☆
Top Hat / Silk Top Hat
The most formal ceremonial hat, with a tall cylindrical crown and brim slightly curved at both ends. Born in the UK in the late 18th century, it was essential for gentlemen's formal wear throughout the 19th century. In Japan, it's called "silk hat" because it was originally made from silk plush.
Still required at formal events like Britain's Royal Ascot today. Christys' is the only manufacturer that still makes top hats today.
- Also known as: silk top hat
- Crown: tall cylindrical shape
- Formal level: ★★★★★ (highest formality)
Panama Hat
A lightweight, highly breathable summer classic made by hand-weaving toquilla grass (paja toquilla) from Ecuador. Despite the name "Panama," its actual origin is Ecuador. The name stuck because laborers wore it during the construction of the Panama Canal.
It comes in various shapes like fedora or boater; "Panama hat" refers to the material, not a specific shape. Finer weaving indicates higher quality, with top-tier Montecristi hats taking several months to complete. It was registered as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2012.
- Material: Toquilla grass (from Ecuador)
- Shape: Various like fedora-style, boater-style
- Formal level: ★★★☆☆
- Related Article → List of Straw Hat Brands
Bucket Hat
A casual hat with a shape like an upside-down bucket, featuring a soft downward brim. Originally a practical hat worn by Irish fishermen and outdoor workers. It gained attention in the 1960s mod culture and exploded in street fashion from the 1990s to 2000s.
Made from various materials like cotton, nylon, denim, many are foldable for easy carrying. Recently, it's available from luxury to streetwear brands.
- Also known as: safari hat (broad term)
- Brim width: medium (downward all around)
- Crown: soft
- Formal level: ★☆☆☆☆
Western Hat / Cowboy Hat
A symbol of American Western cowboy culture, with a tall crown and wide brim. The original model was the "Boss of the Plains," made by John B. Stetson in 1865. Its unique silhouette with both ends of the brim curled up came from practical design to protect against sun and rain.
Also called a ten-gallon hat, though the theory linking it to Spanish "galón" (braid) is widely accepted—it doesn't actually hold 10 gallons of water.
- Also known as: cowboy hat, ten-gallon hat
- Brim width: wide (curled up at both ends)
- Crown: tall
- Formal level: ★★☆☆☆
- Representative Brand → Stetson (List of Global Hat Brands)
Cap Types
Baseball Cap
A cap with a curved front visor, made of 6 panels. Originated as part of baseball players' uniforms, it's now one of the most widely worn hats in the world. New Era's 59FIFTY is a classic example. It comes in two types: fitted (fixed size) and adjustable.
- Also known as: BB cap
- Formal level: ★☆☆☆☆
Hunting Cap / Flat Cap
A cap with a short front visor and a crown sloping flat toward the front. Called "flat cap" in the UK and "ivy cap" in the US. Originally worn daily by the working class in Britain and Ireland, often made of tweed or wool.
Kangol's 504 is a representative model. It works for both casual and smart-casual styles.
- Also known as: flat cap, ivy cap, bird-shooting cap
- Formal level: ★★☆☆☆
Casquette / Newsboy Cap
Similar to a hunting cap, but with a voluminous, puffy crown. Made of usually 8 panels with a button on top. The name "newsboy cap" comes from early 20th-century American newspaper delivery boys who wore them.
More casual and playful than a hunting cap. Recently, it's also popular in women's fashion.
- Also known as: newsboy cap, baker boy cap
- Formal level: ★★☆☆☆
Work Cap
A simple cap with a shallow flat crown and short visor. Derived from railway worker and factory laborer work hats, it's designed for practicality with no extra details. Often made of cotton or denim.
- Also known as: railroad cap
- Formal level: ★☆☆☆☆
Other Hats
Beret
A hat with no brim, featuring a round flat shape. Said to originate from the Basque region of France and Spain. Often made of wool or felt, it's used worldwide both as a fashion item and military headgear.
- Formal level: ★★☆☆☆
Beanie / Knit Cap
A stretchy hat made from knitted fabric. Primarily for warmth, it's also a staple of casual fashion. There are folded versions (watch caps) and those that fit tightly to the head.
- Also known as: knit cap, watch cap
- Formal level: ★☆☆☆☆
Classification by Hat Material
Hats have very different personalities depending on their material, not just shape. For example, the same fedora can feel and look totally different in felt vs straw.
Felt— A fall/winter staple. Ranks from wool felt → rabbit fur felt → beaver felt in terms of luxury. Excellent warmth retention and durability, maintains shape well. See "List of Felt Hats" for details.
Straw (Natural Grass)— A spring/summer staple. Many types exist: Panama (toquilla grass), raffia, wheat straw, sisal, etc. Lightweight and highly breathable, perfect for summer comfort. See "List of Straw Hats" for details.
Paper (Paper Material)— Lighter and more affordable than natural grass. Texture varies by processing like paper blade, paper cloth. Slightly less shape retention than natural grass, but enough for casual use.
Fabric (Textile)— Includes cotton, linen, wool, tweed, etc. Used a lot for caps and bucket hats. Many are washable, great for everyday wear.
When You're Confused About Hat Types
It's normal to be confused with so many options. For choosing your first hat, these simple guides can help:
If you want a polished look → Fedora, Homburg
If you want a casual style → Pork pie, bucket hat, hunting cap
If you need a summer hat → Boater hat, Panama hat, straw fedora
If you want something simple and easy to match → Flat hat, wide brim hat
Many things about hats only become clear when you try them on. For detailed tips on size and fit, refer to "Hat Buying Guide".
Summary
There are many hat types, each with distinct shape differences and history. The versatility of the fedora, the summery feel of the boater, the casualness of the pork pie, the striking presence of the wide brim—"knowing the shape" is the shortest path to finding a hat that fits your style.
We hope this article serves as a useful guide for choosing a hat. If you want to learn about each brand's features, check out "List of Global Hat Brands" and "List of Japanese Hat Brands" too.
ReqHatter is a Japanese hat brand based in Fukuoka, specializing in classic men's hats. With the modern classic concept, it offers styles like Flat Hat, Boater Hat, Pork Pie Hat, Wide Brim Hat and more.